When in Greece

Before I launch into tales of Greece, here are a few catch-up tidbits:

*Cinque Terre was stunning. It was the perfect day, weather-wise. After a hectic train transfer I met up with Kate and her roommates Dessa and Kinsey (from CA); it was nice to have the company. It was a long train ride, about 3 hours, and toward the end we drove through a long tunnel. When light dawned again, we were hit with the flash of the glittering ocean as far as we could see. A collective gasp arose from the tourist-filled train.

We hiked between quattro of the cinque towns. That was hike enough for me, wonderful as it was. At one point we had to climb 382 steps to reach the next town. We did it in grim silence, promising each other we wouldn't complain. What views, though. The blue of this water cannot be captured in pictures. It looked like someone came along with a really garish teal dye and just dumped it in the ocean.

At the fourth town that started with a V and had Z's in it, we got to climb DOWN into it, winding our way through tiny streets and Mediterranean-colored houses and past line after line of breezy laundry. How weird must it be to live in a place where people take pictures of your clothes drying? Why is the lack of dryers so endlessly charming?

*Back in Pisa, I found out that 18 month old Owen draws like me. I could have watched him for hours, feeling his way along with the pen, getting in close for an intricate section, sweeping his hand for a quick broad gesture. Yes, I am inspired by babies. I can''t wait to come home and get messy with charcoal and paint.

*The leaning tower at night is best. Especially on the Sabbath.

*Figuring out the subway in Milan at 10:3o pm, when all the ticket counters are closed and I do not speak Italian, makes me think I can do anything.

*From what I've seen so far, Greece is grittier than Italy; or maybe the hardness of life just isn't hidden so well. But I love it, and the glory shines through the grime everywhere.

*My first Greek baklava experience transcends description. Picture the best thing you can think of, DRENCHED in more of the best thing you can think of, melting in your mouth and down your fingers and into your very SOUL. I told Anna that we need to eat it every single day, at least once a day.

*Hooray, I'm with Anna. She makes me happy, and her inordinate love for found-rocks makes everything in ruins and on the seashore all the better.

*We went to the Parthenon together. I can't believe that we questioned for 2 seconds whether it would be worth the 12 euro it cost to get in. That evening shot its way into my Top 2, along with Iona in Scotland. It was golden hour, and the sun was just BURSTING in rays down onto Athens spread far far below. The ruins were massive and as impressive as we'd hoped. Then there was the soundtrack.... A amphitheater down the cliffs was the location for a dress rehearsal of an orchestra and choir, and the full sound just came soaring up. Those Greeks (or Romans, at that point... whatever) sure knew their acoustics. And so we sat and listened, and I grinned til my face hurt. The sun just kept setting and the sky kept getting better and better, and soon it was filled with swallows swooping by with audible "swoooshes." Really? A concert, just for us, and a sunset, and swallows, and olives (Anna pulled those out at a key moment), on the PARTHENON? It's like it was a conspiracy of joy.

We would have stayed all night, but finally had to leave (we were kicked out). In case we were tempted to sneak back up, at the bottom we found soldiers in formation, making a show of loading their machine guns and marching all the way up to the top with that distinctive Greek high-foot stomp. Night security of one of the world's greatest treasures is no joke.

Now we are in Aegina, an island near Athens recommended by the guy we bought feta/olive/tomato sandwiches from yesterday. Why not? We're waiting for the sun to come out, and enjoying the down-time of not having to do anything but be in Greece.


p.s. I just saw that I already used my "teal dye" description in my last post. That just means it's true.